The selectively permeable skin
barrier is the top most layer of the skin (so called “dead skin
layer”), which has a tremendous role in protection against dehydration
and variable environmental changes. This layer contains cells without nuclei comprised of keratin filaments sank in a lipid milieu of free cholesterol,
cholesterol ionic (sulfate cholesterol), ceramide, and other free fatty
acids. The role of each of the constituents of this layer is still an
open question.

One thing is certain! Any modification in the skin barrier’s equilibrium may trigger different skin conditions such a dryness, itchiness or dermatitis.



Preservation of the qualities of the skin barrier became a necessity these days when we encounter so many pollution
sources around us. In order to maintain a healthy and active skin
barrier you should moisturize your skin on a daily basis. There are
many important qualities that a moisturizer has to achieve in order to protect the skin barrier.



One of the important qualities of a moisturizer is to bring moisture
and keep it there. For this purpose every moisturizer has to contain
humectants, preferable natural, such as vegetable glycerin. The
glycerin can attract water and trigger the elasticity of the skin.



Fatty acids
on the other hand, have a major role in retaining the moisture in.
However, a high concentration of fatty acids without any humectant in a
skin care formulation increases the sensitivity of the skin barrier to
different chemicals. For example sodium lauryl sulfate, one of the
major ingredient in synthetic cleansers can easily penetrate the skin
barrier in the above conditions, leading to cell damage. To strengthen
the barrier function some fatty acids are more important than other.
For example linoleic and gamma linoleic acids, induce the biosynthesis
of ceramide , a skin barrier constituent , which improves radically the
barrier function.



Another quality for a well formulated moisturizer is sunscreen
protection. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, Vitamin E or Coenzyme Q
have an important role in UV protection. However for a photoaging
damaged skin these only ingredients are not sufficient to stop or
reverse the aging process. Vitamin A is also required to enhance the
biosynthesis of the new skin cells. On the other hand too high
concentration of vitamin A can induce wrinkles.



To activate the skin barrier process of regeneration the most upper
layer of the cells has to be removed periodically. The removal of the
cells can be rapidly obtained by peeling procedure. The stronger the
peeling procedure you choose the longer time is needed for the skin
barrier to regenerate. By using mild peeling procedure the removal of
the cells is limited to some extent to those cells ready to be shed. In
this case, the regeneration is naturally occurred, is not induced or
forced, this keeping the upper skin layer protected.



In conclusion:



Don’t rush for a moisturizer, which claims to contain one extraordinary active ingredient!

One or even two active ingredients are not enough to provide a healthy
skin and protective skin barrier. The active ingredients have to be as
many as they can maintain all the skin needs for hydration,
regeneration, rejuvenation and protection. The potential active
ingredients have to interact with each other in a complete synergy to
provide the maximum strengths and a high quality skin care product.



Don’t rush for an extreme peeling alternative. Look for a less
aggressive, more natural way of improving your skin and strengthening
your skin’s barrier function.



After all, your skin has to be prepared not for a moment of nice pretence it has to remain healthy for your entire life.



About the author:

Claudia Budu has a master in biochemistry and a Ph.D. in cell biology.
Living in three continents: Europe, Middle East and North America she
came in touch with different cultures and customs. Her hobby was to
learn from every

tradition how to use natural herbs and mixture of herbs to help
revitalize the skin at any age. Everything that she has learned from
others and with more than 20 years of

scientific expertise resulted in creations of TelBari skin care
products, the basic stone for a family business (www.telbari.com).